Butterick 5749

11 May

See the cami peeking out? This dress is low cut!

This pattern is a Butterick designer pattern by Suzi Chin. I fell in love with the drapey neck, the shirred waist, and the pleats at the skirt. It is rated as Average and is described as this on the back of the envelope:
Partially lined dress has bias front pleated bodice, bias midriff, slightly shaped front hemline, invisible side zipper and narrow hem. Here is where you can see a picture of the pattern envelope.

I used a wonderful designer knit I purchased from a fabric store in New Orleans when I was there for a conference last December. At that time, I weighed almost 20 more pounds than I do now, so I set it aside waiting for the perfect pattern and until I shed a few pounds!
Well, I finally am down two pattern sizes and sewed this up in a 16. I feel like the waist is still a little snug, but with summer coming up and my passion for running and riding my bike, I am hoping to knock another inch off my waist. :) Plus wearing a cotton cami under a knit dress isn’t such a great idea. I was too lazy to remove it for the pictures.

So here is what I did with the pattern, some things worked, and some didn’t! Please don’t make my mistakes!!!

The pattern calls for a two-way stretch knit and that is what I used. So, in what I thought was a stroke of brilliance, I thought I could line the bodice with a woven. Wow was I having a brain-fart. What was I thinking? Lining a knit with a woven? Someone slap me upside the head next time I think something that ridiculous would work. That little mistake cost me many hours of deconstructing the entire thing and staring over. Since I thought I was being so incredibly smart and used the woven, I didn’t even bother to purchase the Tricot for the lining. After my hour or two of deconstruction, I searched all over Sioux Falls and couldn’t find any Tricot in stock anywhere, so I headed up to my lingerie drawer and found two discarded slips. Slips? Really? Does anyone wear those anymore that is under the age of 75? Oops! I hope my mother in law isn’t reading this, she tends to buy everyone slips when she notices us girls aren’t wearing one!
So, I cut those slips apart to match the pattern pieces, restitched the entire thing, put the invisible zipper back in and viola! I have a completed dress!

The dress is a little shorter than I would normally have liked it, but my husband thinks I now have the legs for it, so I won’t do anything about it. Not that I could, I don’t have enough fabric to recut the skirt and since I purchased it five months ago halfway across the country, I am out of luck.

What did I like or dislike?
Putting in the invisible zipper with all the shirring was tortureous to say the least and after one try I ended up hand basting it so all the seams lined up.
I lifted the neckline that is under the drape by 1.5 inches and feel it is still too low. I am wearning a cami underneath and you can see it.
I love the draping and skirt lines. The side zip makes the back fit well.
I made my usual erect back/sway back adjustment of lowering the back neckline by 1/2 inch.
I wish my slips had been ivory instead of white, but you can’t see the lining at all, so that is a bonus.
If you read any of my other reviews regarding knit fabrics, you would know that unfinished edges drive me batty so even though I didn’t need to do this extra step, I did: I turned under the edge of the facing and edge stitched it with two rows of stitching. I love how polished it looks.
Also on the bodice front, the neck edge is simply rolled to the inside, again, unfinished. Well, guess what I did with that? Yep, you got it, I finished that edge with my serger, turned it under and topstitched it.
I will warn you there is quite a bit of hand sewing the lining to the bodice. I like hand stitching, in moderation that is, so it didn’t bother me.

All in all, I think this dress is worth stitching up. Please make a muslin. I wish I would have!
Have fun with this one.
Oh, and please forgive the rather poor quality of the pictures. I tried something new with my camera and it didn’t work out how I wanted it to!
Happy sewing!
Sue

Sabrina tunic

8 May

Sabrina dress 001

This is a fun little dress I created for myself, but my DD1 was home for the first time in a year, discovered it and decided we needed to alter the neckline. Needless to say, it has disappeared into her suitcase and is most likely residing in her closet in California.

b>Pattern Description:
From the pattern:
The Sabrina Tunic….our first dress for Boutique Chic! You will feel as cool and sophisticated as Audrey Hepburn in this glorious easy-to-sew little frock featuring a boat neckline, sleeveless bodice, empire waist, and A-line skirt with subtle gathering. The look is polished with a tie at the waist that criss-crosses int he back. Featured in three lengths, this design can be worn with pants or as a flirty dress. This tunic is perfect for all seasong, looking equally smasing by itself or with a cardigan or jacket.

Pattern Sizing:
Sizes XXS to XXL are included in the same envelope!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Well, it did before DD1 decided the neckline needed altered!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were very easy to understand and there are a lot of directions including how to alter the pattern to make it your own with some fun design elements.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
For being such a cute and easy pattern, I didn’t think it was all that well-drafted. While it is from an indy pattern company and not the big 4, the drafting leaves a few things to be desired such as the neckline. Prior to my daughter suggesting we alter it, I hated how it sat and decided to leave it hanging in the closet for an entire year!

Fabric Used:
A 100% cotton that pressed and sewed beautifully.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Here goes:
We decided to alter the neckline to make it a V-neck. So, from my stash I found a pattern whose neckline I liked and used that to redraw the proper shape. Next, I cut 1.5 inch bias strips for the neckline facing, fused interfacing to those pieces and sewed them on. I decided to make it a banded-neckline leaving about a half an inch showing on the right side. Sorry I didn’t think to take a photo of a close up of this and it is long gone to another state halfway across the country so I can’t get a picture now!
I found the dress-length much too short and found this 100% pink cotton and used that on the hemline. It took the dress from scandalous to cute with little effort. Also, I doubled the fabric width and it gave some weight to the dress and now it hangs better.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I won’t sew this again simply because I hated the neckline so much. I have so many other patterns I want to sew that this will end on the BOTTOM of my pile of want to sew rather than need to sew–if you know what I mean!

Conclusion:
I am glad DD rescused this one. Next time I have a flop, I am sending it onto her because where I agonize over making changes, she just goes for it and she was two for two on changing design elements from her recent visit. Now I have a little more room in my closet for other what I hope to be treasures!

Vogue 1291

8 May

</aThis is a loose-fitting pullover top. There are two versions A and B. They both have bias neck bands, front sleeves with overlapping back sleeve forming shoulder opening, no shoulder seams and narrow hems.

Pattern Sizing:
This pattern is one of Sandra Betzina so it is labeled A through J.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Well, before we changed it yes. Afterwards, you decide!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes they were well writen. This pattern is labeled as easy and the instruction followed suit.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Well, I loved the style but the neckline is weird looking when it is completed. I am not sure about the front portion of the sleeves–more on that later!

Fabric Used:
I used an acrylic loose knit in a lovely lilac. This pattern demands something floaty and soft for it to look right.
b>Pattern Description:
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I altered the pattern by sewing down the front portion of the sleeve to what would be the shoulder seam (if it had one).
I showed the finished top to my DD1 and she thought the neckline looked funny. Since I didn’t like the finished top, I closed my eyes as she cut the neckband off and made it wider. I would estimate that she ended up cutting about 2.5 inches all the way around.
Next, she cut an approximate 4 inch bias band, seamed it and attached to the neckline while at the same time making some small random pleats to help contain the neckband. Lastly she made an elastic casing at the hem and included clear elastic just to keep the top snug on the hips.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I am not sure if I will sew it again. I really love how she modified it and if I can remember how she did it later, yes I will construct it again.

Conclusion:
I am very happy that DD1 was able to salvage this top. She loves it and it looks great on her!
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Burda Skirt 7342

5 May

Burda skirt 001

This is a super easy and fun summer skirt. The pattern envelope has two versions, both are semi-fitted. The skirt has a front and back shaped yoke, center back zipper, and bias cut skirt.

There are optional flaps you can add to the front, and I had them on at first but thought they looked silly. a href=”http://parrott.blog.com/files/2012/05/Burda-skirt-001.jpg”>

There are optional flaps you can add to the front, and I had them on at first but thought they looked silly.

I used a cotton quilting fabric that I just fell in love with. If you’ve never used one for a garment, give it a try, it is wonderful!

I made a size 16 and it fit perfectly. The instructions were just fine, even for Burda.

Here is what I changed:
Removed the flaps, they looked silly.
Put a bias edge on the yoke facings just to give it a more finished edge.
I used a lapped zipper application.
I ended up lining the bottom portion of the skirt that you can see here:
Lining from tricot<

I used two rows of topstitching on the hem of the skirt for fun!

This is a highly recommended easy skirt that is just perfect for summer.

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Red cropped pants!

23 Apr


I am having a great deal of fun with the Bernina My Label software I recently purchased. I decided to try the flared pant, but I didn’t want the flares nor did I want long pants. So, I cropped them and widened the knee.

Pattern Description:
These pants have back double welt pockets with flaps. The front is flat or sans pockets, there are belt loops and a front fly. I decided to line the pants.

Pattern Sizing:
These patterns are based on inputting your measurements so they fit very well.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, they did look like how I designed them on the computer.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I posted pictures of how the welt is constructed. I hadn’t tried using a one piece welt and folding it over and sewing. I think it worked very well and plan on trying that technique again.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It is a pretty basic pattern. Next time, I may try the five pocket jean for a more ready to wear look. I may have widened the legs a little too much.

Fabric Used:
This was a vintage suede brick from Fabric.com. It is 100% poly and pretty amazing to work with. The only drawback is that it is dry clean only.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added the lining. Other than that, I didn’t make any changes.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I believe I will sew these again. They went together very well and I have to admit, the welts were easy and turned out well!

Conclusion:
I just love wearing red and I purchased some new red sandals today I could wear with the pants to work!
Thanks for reading!
Sue

Anne Klein Silk Blouse

17 Apr

014

Pattern Description:
This is a semi-fitted blouse with great details. The back of the pattern envelope describes the pattern as this: Semi-fitted, lined blouse has back neck band, pleated flounce, front band with snap closing and very narrow hem. Contrast flounce and bias strip for side front/side back seams/sleeve hems. Semi-fitted, straight-legged pants have contour waistband and fly zipper closing. Bias binding finishes waistband. I would also add that the snaps are covered with the main fabric.

Pattern Sizing:
This is a multi-sized pattern. I cut a straight size 16, which is a size smaller than I used to wear but now currently wear thanks to healthy eating patterns and regular exercise. I think it fit perfectly and is true to size.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I believe it does.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, the instructions are very easy to follow, yet since it is rated average by Vogue, there are a few minor details left out such as finishing off edges and such. However, if you are going to tackle a pattern such as this, you should know how to do a few of those things! If not, opt for the Very Easy Vogue or Easy Vogue until you get those issues figured out.
I did think the flounce was a little tricky to tackle, but once I just stopped stressing about it and just sewed it, it turned out great!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
My favorite part of the pattern is the details!!! I love all of these and there was a great deal of hand sewing, which I also enjoy a lot. You can see here that the inside is finished just as nicely as the outside! <

Fabric Used:
I used a 100% silk I purchased from Fabric Mart. It is just heavenly! I used an off-white lining for the inside I purchased in bulk from Fabric Mart.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn’t make any design changes as it is so beautiful the way it is. I love the flounce, the sleeves are finished off with a bias band and the front and back seams are finished with an exposed bias band. I used a simple rolled hem on the flounce.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I just love this blouse and may make it again, although it is pretty distinct. Maybe if I can figure out how to alter the the neck band or flounce I may tackle it again.

Conclusion:
This was a fun project with a wonderful fabric. I love the result and can’t wait to wear it! Don’t be afraid to tackle this one and an even better idea would be to make this in a muslin first to work out the flounce.
Thanks for reading!
Sue :)

Summer skirt!

17 Apr

011

This is such a fun easy project!
I used my Bernina My Label software to create this gored skirt that fits perfectly! It was such an easy pattern that went together beautifully! So here is the scoop with this software. You put in about 75 measurements (literally) and using the 1 of 20 different styles you can create your perfect garment. I just purchased this software from a sewing pattern reviewer used and had to try it out. I wanted something super easy after struggling with a couple of projects and this was perfect!
This skirt has five pattern pieces, all of which I cut twice. That’s right, I used the main fabric as the interfacing for the waistband.
I used a 100% cotton quilting fabric for the entire thing I purchased for three dollars a yard at Fabric Mart a while back. This skirt didn’t take much yardage and I still have about 1/2 yard of my 2 yards left over to use in a future quilt.
What did I change? I shortened it a few inches like I mentioned before, moved the center back zipper to the side and made the zipper a lapped zipper so that it didn’t show as I didn’t have an invisible zipper handy and it was storming outside. I also used a hook and eye closure instead of a button. I topstitched all the seams in the soft yellow that is in the skirt. For my first My Label project, I am very pleased! I love my new skirt!
Yes, I will most likely make this again, perhaps in leather, wool, or even linen. Lining it would make this super easy and a nice addition to a work wardrobe.
Thanks for reading my review!
Sue :)

Vogue 1254

21 Mar

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This dress is still a work in progress. I really love this this Anne Klein pattern for a misses dress. You can see the link here: . Here is how the pattern is described: Lined, close-fitting dress has darted bodice, extending ends, crossing in front and forming a keyhole opening and double collar. Saddle stitch embellished darts.

I used a rayon blended denim for this dress in a blackish-blue. I purchased the fabric at either Hancocks or JoAnns–I can’t remember which one! For the lining, I used a blue polkadot fabric for the lining. This pattern is rated as Average and I found it was rated appropriately for the skills, marking, and fitting required.

So, what did I like/dislike?
I love the style! It is just a cool and classic style. The empire waist is great and gives you a very fitted look. The double collar is pretty cool as well and requires careful marking. I do think it was tricky to fit even though my measurements are pretty spot on for a size. I do have an erect back and that gives me fitting issues at the back waist. I did adjust the seams, especially on my muslin and it fit well.
What didn’t I like? This may not be fair, but with Vogue patterns you don’t always get all the details needed to finish off seam allowances, raw edges, etc. The double collar construction and keyhole opening were tricky but after a few trials and errors, I got a pretty good finish.

What did I change? I simply could not get the sleeves to fit without some gaping and excess fabric at the back and front. Although if you look at the pattern envelope, you can see there is some excess there as well. So, I did the next best thing and took the sleeves off and used a facing to finish the area off. I like the sleeveless version and think it is better than the original!

What still needs done? Fiddling with the keyhole opening a little more and I need to do some additional fitting at the back waistline. Suggestions are welcome!

All in all, I like the dress and will wear it this summer–as long as I get it to fit better!
Sue

Vogue 8599 OOP

6 Mar

Marcy Tilton Vest

Hong Kong seam finish

vest back

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8599-products-10475.php?page_id=955&search_control=display&list=search

Here is one of my latest creations! I love this vest pattern by Marcy Tilton. When Marcy calls her clothing ‘wearable art’ I have to agree! There are so many creative and fun things you can do to this vest pattern to make it your own.

The pattern evenlope is for two different, although very similar vests. You can embelish as you wish, with either lace at the neckline and armhole edges or you can simply add some contrasting fabric and funky buttons–which is what I did.

This is a sem-fitted vest. and before constructing it, I checked out the reviews on sewing patterns.com. All the reviews stated the pattern ran big and prior to cutting, I did some measuring and found it to run large. I ended up making a size smaller that my measurements, and still took it in quite a bit!

Fabric used: I purchased a beautiful and yummy hand-dyed wool that I purchased at a wonderful quilt shop when I was in Bismark, North Dakota last summer. It came in this beautiful fushia-like color that I couldn’t resist! Since I had no idea what I was going to use it for, it was rather spendy, and my husband was with me, I only purchased a yard. :) That left me with quite the dilemma, what do I use for contrast or facings in a finished garment? I would never be able to match the color, so I decided to go for a contrast and used a black doe-suede I purchased at Hancock Fabric.

Now for the fun part: what did I change? I followed the pattern pretty much as written. I decided I wanted to finally make some decent hong-kong finished seams on the center back and did. I used black bias tape and love the additional contrast it provided. All my facings were made in the black doe-suede along with the collar facing and the back vent. The only real change I made to the pattern was that I added a medium weight interfacing to the armholes and hems. I am not sure why Vogue or the designer skipped this step as it made for a droopy hem. I tried the facings without the additional stabilazation and had to hand hem everything in place. I still wasn’t happy and took the facings off, interfaced and replaced. I found I only had to hand tack to various points around the perimeter of the hem and I so much happier with finished result!

I love the buttons I used. They were a little bit of a splurge at $2.50 each, but when I got the register to pay, they were half-price!
I had to alter the vest quite a bit in the bust area and waist, even though I cut it a size smaller than I typically use.
I love my vest and everything about it!
I highly recommend this pattern, especially if you want something a little different and want to make it your own.
Thanks for reading!
Sue

Simplicity 2424

5 Mar

This is such a cute pattern from the Threads magazine collection. Quite simply, the pattern is a misses’ jacket, dress, and knit cardigan. I made this very cute dress as a jumper last winter (2010) and just love it! Unfortunately I put on about 20 pounds over the fall and wasn’t able to wear it again until recenty (I have lost 15 pounds so far!).
Here is my review.
The dress is rather semi-fitted. It has a rounded neckline, is sleeveless and has princess-like seams on the front, princess-like seams down the back of the dress, a center back zip and carriers along about half of the waistine for a self belt or purchased belt. The dress is not lined, but I decided it needed lined. More on changes below!
I used a menswear plaid tropical weight suiting from Fabric.com that was so wonderful to work with! The fabric has a small plaid woven throughout.
What did I like? The neckline is just wonderful on the dress and very in right now. That was the main reason I picked up the pattern. Also, I thought it screamed for a plaid and would make a very cute jumper, so that is what I went for.
What did I change? As I said before, I went ahead and lined the dress using the regular pattern pieces as a guide. I am very pleased I lined the dress as I believe it hangs well.
This was one of the first invisible zippers I had ever put in and I majorly screwed up but it turned out to be a happy accident! As I lined the dress, I stitched the lining to the main dress and decided to forgo the directions and put in the zipper before I attached the neckline. This was all well and good except that I accidently cut off the excess of the zipper and didn’t have enough to cover the neckline! After thinking for a minute or two, I decided that I would cover two buttons with the wool and make loops that attached to secure them to the back neckline, just above the zipper. I love how it turned out and if I do make this again, I am going to add that touch.
What did I like about the pattern? It was easy to put together, directions were well-written, and it lends itself to some creativity!
I do recommend this pattern to others, especially if you are a beginner or just want a dress style as the one pictured. I am not sure I will create this dress again as I have so many patterns and so little time, but I am keeping it on file, just in case!
Thanks for reading!
Sue